heading to zagros

21 04 2008

We are heading to Iran this weekend to attend a very exciting and special conference on Zagros Tranditional Settlements in Sanandaj, Kurdistan, organized by the International Network for Traditional Building, Architecture, and Urbanism. We will write much more about the lectures and sites; but please let us know if there is anything specific that you want us to pay attention to, take pictures of, or ask the experts attending and/or presenting at the conference.



Photo courtesy of International Network for Traditional Building, Architecture, and Urbanism



tehran metro

11 04 2008

[By Shideh]   During my last years in Iran, 1998-1999, Tehran Metro seemed like a dream that would never come to reality.  We knew that the plan for its construction had begun a long time before the revolution but was stopped during the war and that the construction had finally started after all those years but there was no hope as it seemed to take a long time.  Tehran’s traffic continued to worsen, the pollution lead to numerous social/economical/health problems, and the need for metro was at its peak.  On march 7th, 1999, Tehran-Karaj express electric train finally started a limited service of 31.4 km between Azadi square in Tehran and Malard in Karaj with one intermediate stop.  The construction works of stations, tunnels, and bridges on a few subway lines were eventually finished and a great number of Tehranies use the Metro every day now to get to their destinations.  


Iran khodro with an annual production of over 1,000,000 vehicles continues to contribute to the congestion of cars in Tehran and other cities, while there is an ongoing parallel attempt to increase public transportation and metro lines in Tehran and complete construction of metro stations/tunnels in other major cities (i.e. Shiraz, Tabriz, Mashhad, etc.).  The limits imposed on the amount of gas available for each driver last year seemed to be successful in reducing traffic for a short time, but people have found a way around the limitations and selling gas on black market has become a common scene in Tehran.



Photo and map courtesy of TehranMetro

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tehran’s official site

4 04 2008

[By Shideh]   I came across the official website of the city of Tehran, while looking for some information regarding the duties and power of the Mayor.  This site provides detailed information on different aspects of life in Tehran ranging from history, policy, and urban planning to education, tourism, and much more, which you might find useful: http://www.tehran.ir

subway culture

1 04 2008

[By Shideh]   When I walk to a metro station, whether it is in the Bay Area (California), New York, Tehran, or Boston, I look at the people around me and quickly plan my next move.  Is there a seat available? If so, are there older people standing? If not, who should I sit next to? If there are no available seats, where can I find a spot without getting hurt or being on the way?  Once I manage my way in and find a spot, I usually start day dreaming about the events of the day or something I am planning in the days to come, or read an article or a book.  I quickly lose count of minutes and my surrounding and only pay attention to the name of the station each time the train stops.  Recently, however, I have become more aware of the social aspect of subways.  I want to get to know the people with whom I happen to travel from a source to a destination.  After all, trains give us the opportunity to make many friends and learn about our surroundings. 

During our last trip to Tehran, when I entered a metro station I first noticed the majestic artwork on the walls and the neatness of the station as a whole.  Tehran-metro is truly one of the most beautiful and comfortable subways I have ever used.  People formed lines in an organized way, and were much more polite than other places.  In Tehran, at least in my experience, there is no need to ask people to get up when a pregnant lady or an elderly walks in.  When an older woman walked in, younger people got up and offered to help – a scene that is seldom experienced in NYC or even the Bay Area.  I was surprised to see that unlike busses, Tehran metro did not have separate sections for men and women — It turned out, however, that I had walked into the wrong section!


Photo of Tehran Metro, courtesy of Bahadorjn 

Shawhin and I spent last weekend in New York City.  Taking metro in New York City is not trivial by any means.  You are surrounded by many different faces, races, cultures, ages, and economic backgrounds.  The social aspect of New York subways are fascinating.  The advertisements on the walls usually get my attention for a few minutes while I notice an excellent band playing music in the subway station.  I quickly see a homeless in the other corner begging for money and scolding those who refuse to help and an old man without teeth on the other side is asking whether I am willing to buy his metro ticket (which he seems to have stolen from someone).  I notice a frustrated mother on the other corner with 2 little boys who are being as loud as possible and are quite hard to control.  There are young girls putting on make up on the other side, laughing, singing, and joking every now and then while flirting with boys who pass them by.  Suddenly a group of rich coworkers walk in and quietly wait for the next train and look at their surrounding with disgust.  There is an artist on the other corner drawing our faces and is getting a good laugh at it while smoking something that doesn’t smell like cigarettes.  You might see anything and everything when you are waiting for the train in a New York City metro station — unexpected things. When the train arrives, all of us sit next to each other in crowded narrow halls of the train. 

In the Bay Area, seats are arranged in a way that passengers are not forced to sit next to each other or interact (rows of seats with their backs to each other, with the exception of a few in each train cabin).  In NYC and Tehran, however, the seats are on the two sides of the train and face the center.  Last Sunday, a fantastic group of break dancers were dancing in the train when we walked in to go to Soho and Café Habana from our hotel in Union Square.  I felt fortunate to be given a chance to watch the dance of a few young African Americans for no fee really while waiting in the train.  I was a part of the energy of the crowd that was traveling below the streets of New York while experiencing unexpected events, seeing new faces, hearing new music, listening to new stories, and watching new dances.  Imagine listening to young Iranian musicians playing Santour, Tonbak, Daf, and Tar in the subways of Tehran while enjoying a cup of tea and  waiting for the next train.